A Trek To GHANDRUK

On 9th April, 2011, trekking for about six hours from the place called Nayapul (New Bridge) near Birethati, I along with my classmates and teachers reached Ghandruk(northern- central Nepal). It is especially known as a transit point for the Annapurna Base Camp and falls under the IUCN Protected Area Management Category VI (http://www.iucn.org/about/work/programmes/pa/pa_products/wcpa_categories/pa_categoryvi/ )

Now having been to Ghandruk I feel as if I have conquered the Everest Summit. Well you may take me as a fool and laugh  but seriously Ghandruk is not within the access of most of the people. Reason is you have to trek up and down the trials (very well managed and clean) as there is no proper road (no bus, mocro or taxi) to take you up there and next option is to charter a helicopter, which is possible only when your pocket is thick enough and the weather is friendly(beyond the capacity of most Nepalese and others as well). One can enjoy the scenic beauty and the local Gurung culture and the feel of the old days that our grandparents used to share saying one had to walk this many days to reach to so and so places. But while I was going uphill finding it really hard to breathe and blood rushing up my brain equal to the speed of  light (a bit of exaggeration won't do much harm) I remembered a phrase once shared by one of my teachers 'Bhoko pet ma himal ramro dekhinna' ( Mountains don't please you when your tummy is empty). This place is so famous for the trekking that people don't find it a necessity to build road networks !!! Strange. But I was glad to see that the road construction was in progress..PHEW!!!

We were there on our field visit for the subject Tourism and Development and during the household survey people complained about inadequate health facilities, access to educational institutions, inflation and so on... The operational cost being very high and Ghandruk being a touristic area, things were really expensive. Great hospitality of the people however made the travelers satisfied.Ghandruk economy is totally dependent on tourist who come for trekking. Hence many have an opinion that when roads are linked to Ghandruk, there is high chance that its economy will suffer a lot (porters, hotels and lodges and even the small shops). While others say that simply because the tourists love the trekking and the stone age feel should that deny the people of Ghandruk from their basic right to development? Should people remain as a museum piece to please the outsiders???  Both views have their own stand and equally true to some extent.

Another fun event was to see the Khachhads one after the other walking in the trails with heavy loads on their back and the sound from the bells tied around their neck. It seemed as if they were synchronized in some sort of system. They were disciplined, civilized and waited for their turns unlike humans.One thing that we need to be careful about Khachhad is not to be too near to them as you might get a nice blow from its constant moving tail which is painful indeed. First hand experience you know ;)

Ghandruk indeed was an exciting trip.  Golden mountains during the sunrise, breakfast in the lap of mountains, the warm Gurung culture, the forest covered with rhododendron, great taste of churpi, the clean trails, body covered with sweat,  pranks with pals, ever smiling locals on the way and many more  made this a memorable trip. Another story that will put a smile in the days to come. A place that one must try at least once in their lifetime. Ghandruk is a place where you don't want to reach until you are there and you don't want to leave once you are there. Right from the beginning of the trekking till its ends you will find everything warm, welcoming and surprising.

One night a feat was held in the palace, and there came a man and prostrated himself before the prince, and all the feasters looked upon him; and they saw that one of his eyes was out and that the empty socket bled.  And the prince inquired of him, "What has befallen you?"  And the man replied, "O prince, I am by profession
a thief, and this night, because there was no moon, I went to rob the money-changer's shop, and as I climbed in through the window I made a mistake and entered the weaver's shop, and in the dark I ran into the weaver's loom and my eye was plucked out.  And now,O prince, I ask for justice upon the weaver."

Then the prince sent for the weaver and he came, and it was decreed that one of his eyes should be plucked out.

"O prince," said the weaver, "the decree is just.  It is right that one of my eyes be taken.  And yet, alas! both are necessary to me in order that I may see the two sides of the cloth that I weave.But I have a neighbour, a cobbler, who has also two eyes, and in his trade both eyes are not necessary."

Then the prince sent for the cobbler.  And he came.  And they took out one of the cobbler's two eyes.

And justice was satisfied.

source: 

The Madman by Khalil Gibran

Making A Silly Mistake

Well it is rightly said, you learn from your mistakes. I can claim that no one understands this statement better that I do. This may sound too hard for the ears but I have an incident as a proof.

It was 27th Nov. 2010 as we went for an evening walk ( just to roam about in the new place; Jumal), there we came across a temple. There was nothing so majestic or anything that would interest you. But, I don't know why temples always catch my sight and especially the bells ties around the places.Keeping the temple to my right, I circled the temple. Ringing the bells here and there. I find this really fun.

Then, there I find two huge bells tied together with a single rope. I run and with some effort, actually with some more than little, grab the rope and enjoy the 'thong thong' sound produced by the bell. Well at times, once is not enough, so I go for a second round fun.... This was really fun and in no time changed to a funny incident

...Then as I turn back, to my utter surprize, there is this guy running towards us as if I had committed some horrible sin. Actually, I had indeed according to him. The guy," Don't you know how to read? See what's written over there, on top." I read, ' The bell is supposed to be rung only at the times of offering  the Bhog (animal sacrifice offered to god by the devotees) .  Anyone, who rings it any other time will have to pay Rs. 52  as penalty.'

HELL NO!!! This is exactly what I felt at that moment. 

I did not have even a single coin with me let alone 52 rupees, neither did Anjana Di. I turned to Ishan Dai. Fortunately, he had Rs. 102 in his pocket and with a look saying, 'YOU IDIOT'  (I felt like one), paid the  offering.


With this funny mistake, which I felt like as if I had committed a terrible sinful deed and would be cursed at the very site, learnt a great lesson for lifetime.

Cultural practices varies from place to place. The way things are interpreted are different everywhere. It is ones perception that justifies the practices; as ringing bell for me was calling god whereas for the others out there, it was disturbing god out of his sound nap.

Upon the inquiry, it was found to be a temple of Dattatrae. The myth says that, Jumla was once a huge lake. Lord Shiva cut the hill and let the water flow out of this place, making it suitable for human settlement. From then this temple stands here as an impression of lord Shiva's feet.

I moved out, with a stupid smile on my face. But a question constantly buzzed on my head, 'Is Rs 52 enough to calm and put back the angry, disturbed God back to sleep for which I was announced guilty and had to pay the penalty to clear my sin account?'

As soon as we were out of the temple premise, I felt a huge relief. We returned to the hotel with laughter and punching lines at one another.

To sum up, I learnt a lot paying Rs 52 and that is what counts the most. On top of that, I have a hilarious incident to share with friends and family as soon as I reach Kathmandu. I paid fine for ringing the bell and that too not any where else but in the temple will serve as good humor for all my audience  Lastly, all's well that ends well.

P.S: Do read or search for an instruction before you ring bells from now onwards. At least , I will... definitely.
:-)