On 9th April, 2011, trekking for about six hours from the place called Nayapul (New Bridge) near Birethati, I along with my classmates and teachers reached Ghandruk(northern- central Nepal). It is especially known as a transit point for the Annapurna Base Camp and falls under the IUCN Protected Area Management Category VI (http://www.iucn.org/about/work/programmes/pa/pa_products/wcpa_categories/pa_categoryvi/ )
Now having been to Ghandruk I feel as if I have conquered the Everest Summit. Well you may take me as a fool and laugh but seriously Ghandruk is not within the access of most of the people. Reason is you have to trek up and down the trials (very well managed and clean) as there is no proper road (no bus, mocro or taxi) to take you up there and next option is to charter a helicopter, which is possible only when your pocket is thick enough and the weather is friendly(beyond the capacity of most Nepalese and others as well). One can enjoy the scenic beauty and the local Gurung culture and the feel of the old days that our grandparents used to share saying one had to walk this many days to reach to so and so places. But while I was going uphill finding it really hard to breathe and blood rushing up my brain equal to the speed of light (a bit of exaggeration won't do much harm) I remembered a phrase once shared by one of my teachers 'Bhoko pet ma himal ramro dekhinna' ( Mountains don't please you when your tummy is empty). This place is so famous for the trekking that people don't find it a necessity to build road networks !!! Strange. But I was glad to see that the road construction was in progress..PHEW!!!
We were there on our field visit for the subject Tourism and Development and during the household survey people complained about inadequate health facilities, access to educational institutions, inflation and so on... The operational cost being very high and Ghandruk being a touristic area, things were really expensive. Great hospitality of the people however made the travelers satisfied.Ghandruk economy is totally dependent on tourist who come for trekking. Hence many have an opinion that when roads are linked to Ghandruk, there is high chance that its economy will suffer a lot (porters, hotels and lodges and even the small shops). While others say that simply because the tourists love the trekking and the stone age feel should that deny the people of Ghandruk from their basic right to development? Should people remain as a museum piece to please the outsiders??? Both views have their own stand and equally true to some extent.
Another fun event was to see the Khachhads one after the other walking in the trails with heavy loads on their back and the sound from the bells tied around their neck. It seemed as if they were synchronized in some sort of system. They were disciplined, civilized and waited for their turns unlike humans.One thing that we need to be careful about Khachhad is not to be too near to them as you might get a nice blow from its constant moving tail which is painful indeed. First hand experience you know ;)
Ghandruk indeed was an exciting trip. Golden mountains during the sunrise, breakfast in the lap of mountains, the warm Gurung culture, the forest covered with rhododendron, great taste of churpi, the clean trails, body covered with sweat, pranks with pals, ever smiling locals on the way and many more made this a memorable trip. Another story that will put a smile in the days to come. A place that one must try at least once in their lifetime. Ghandruk is a place where you don't want to reach until you are there and you don't want to leave once you are there. Right from the beginning of the trekking till its ends you will find everything warm, welcoming and surprising.
